Guide to Hallmarking
Our Guide to Hallmarking
A hallmark is that little ‘mark’ or ‘engraving’, made up of shapes, numbers, letters and images that you may have spotted on your piece of jewellery. Some of our customers tell us it looks like a special code and we completely agree. It’s so tiny, that it can be hard to read and you may not even know it is there.
But, this hallmark symbolises something much bigger - a historic industry tradition to be proud of. It is not only very important but a legal requirement for all jewellery sold in the UK.
Here at Robert Bicknell, we are committed to hallmarking and take it very seriously. We’ve put this handy guide to hallmarking together, so you can best understand the value of your jewellery.
What is a Hallmark?
A hallmark is a set of component marks which are applied to items of jewellery or objects made from precious metal. When we say ‘precious’, we mean items made from silver, gold, platinum and palladium.
When selling a piece of precious jewellery, every retailer is legally required to send their piece to be independently tested at one of the UK four Assay Offices. These UK based Assay Offices are: The Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office in London (which is where we send our jewellery); The Birmingham Assay Office; Sheffield Assay Office or Edinburgh Assay Office.
The metal is professionally tested by the respective Assay Office to determine the fineness of metal used. Only then, if the piece meets legal requirements, the hallmark is applied.
These are the four UK Assay Office logos.
Left to right: Hallmarks for sterling silver, Britannia silver, gold, palladium & platinum.
What Is the Full Traditional Hallmark?
For the untrained eye, a hallmark can be difficult to decipher, so here is what a Full Traditional Hallmark comprises…
• Sponsor's Mark - the identifying mark of the jeweller who made the piece. This is also known as the Maker’s mark.
• Traditional Fineness Mark - an image representing the metal type. For example, gold is a crown and silver is a lion.
• Millesimal Fineness Mark - the fineness of metal used, represented by a number.
• Assay Office Mark - the image which represents the respective Assay Office (London is a leopard).
• Date Letter Mark - a letter to state the year the piece was made.
Gold Hallmarks
These are the gold millesimal fineness marks
Silver Hallmarks
These are the silver millesimal fineness marks
Platinum Hallmarks
These are the platinum millesimal fineness marks
Palladium Hallmarks
These are the palladium millesimal fineness marks
What Does Our Hallmark Look Like?
We’re proud to have our very own Sponsor’s Mark, which each piece of our jewellery is stamped with, so you can be sure your jewellery is from a long-standing, reputable British jeweller.
It is an R (for Robert) and a B (for Bicknell) inside two triangles, which is followed by the other compulsory marks that make up the full traditional hallmark. You’ll also see a tiny leopard in any Robert Bicknell piece, which shows that it was hallmarked atThe Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office, in London. Don’t worry, he doesn’t bite!
Our laboratory-grown diamond jewellery pieces also feature an ‘LB’ alongside the hallmark so you know the diamond was ethically grown inside a laboratory
Our Sponsor's Mark
A line of palladium millesimal fineness marks
Hallmark Example
An example of an a lab grown diamond ring with hallmark
What Does Our Hallmark Look Like?
We’re proud to have our very own Sponsor’s Mark, which each piece of our jewellery is stamped with, so you can be sure your jewellery is from a long-standing, reputable British jeweller.
It is an R (for Robert) and a B (for Bicknell) inside two triangles, which is followed by the other compulsory marks that make up the full traditional hallmark. You’ll also see a tiny leopard in any Robert Bicknell piece, which shows that it was hallmarked atThe Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office, in London. Don’t worry, he doesn’t bite!
Our laboratory-grown diamond jewellery pieces also feature an ‘LB’ alongside the hallmark so you know the diamond was ethically grown inside a laboratory
Our Sponsor's Mark
A line of palladium millesimal fineness marks
Hallmark and Robert Bicknell's
Makers Mark
An example of an a lab grown diamond ring with hallmark
Hallmark Example
An example of an a lab grown diamond ring with hallmark
What Is the 1973 The Hallmarking Act?
When it comes to buying jewellery and precious objects, nowhere in the world are customers more protected than in the UK. We’re one of very few countries to have a statutory hallmarking system for every piece of precious jewellery sold in the UK - even if it has been manufactured elsewhere. There’s even a London Assay Office based at Heathrow Airport for all international imported jewellery coming into the country.
Now, that’s something to be proud of!
What Is the Purpose of Hallmarking?
The purpose of hallmarking is to distinguish precious jewellery and objects from those made from base metals. Giving customers the peace of mind that they are buying what they think they are.
After many year’s in the jewellery industry, we’ve come across some horror stories when it comes to un-hallmarked jewellery. In particular, where online jewellery retailers have be misleading with their descriptions of their pieces.
For example, have you ever seen a ring that says it is gold, but only costs £80? The likelihood is that this ring is actually gold plated, which means it will be made from base metal or silver with a thin coating of gold, which will wear away over time. This is very different to a solid gold ring and is worth a lot less.
That’s where the hallmark comes in… A hallmark tells you exactly what metal the piece of jewellery is made from, so you can be sure what you’re buying is what is says on the tin and more importantly, worth the money you’re paying for it.
As a consumer in the United Kingdom, you’re protected by the law when buying precious jewellery, so know your rights. It’s important to be informed when it comes to making a significant jewellery purchase so you don’t get caught out by dodgy dealing!
Did you know, hallmarks have been around for centuries? And, these are useful in helping us determine the value of inherited jewellery pieces as well. Just make sure you don’t end up selling your grandmother’s expensive diamond ring at your local car boot sale for a few quid!
Where Are Hallmarks Placed?
A jewellery hallmark is usually placed somewhere discreet on the piece. You will find most hallmarks inside ring bands, on earring posts or on a chain fastening. Get your favourite piece of jewellery and see if you can spot yours.
Can you spot the hallmark on this piece?
London Assay Office hallmark punches
How Are Hallmarks Applied to Jewellery?
There are various ways to hallmark a piece of jewellery and the jeweller and Assay Office will determine the best way to do this for each individual piece…
A piece of jewellery can be ‘struck’ with a hallmark which is applied through sharply hitting a piece of jewellery with a stamp and a hammer to apply the mark.
In more recent years, hallmarks have also been applied using a laser which gently engraves the surface of the metal with the hallmark. It’s common to see both types of hallmark on your jewellery.
So, as a customer of Robert Bicknell, you can rest assured that anything you buy from us is tested for the highest quality and fineness when it comes to precious metals. Some may say, “it’s worth its weight in gold!"
Frequently Asked Questions
Just like our coloured gemstone and natural diamond jewellery creations, we produce each laboratory-grown diamond jewellery piece individually and with its own unique characteristics. Once a piece sells, we never make another exactly like it. Choose from a selection of pieces on our website or speak to our bespoke design team to create your own.
No, it is illegal for a piece of jewellery to have more than one hallmark. Every piece of precious jewellery should contain only one hallmark. However, if your jewellery piece is made up of two or more removable components - such as a pendant that slips off the chain or a removable drop from an earring - each component should have it’s own hallmark. That’s the only exception.
Silver jewellery is legally required to be hallmarked if it weighs over 7.78g so you may find some pieces of silver jewellery are not hallmarked. The seller is not breaking the law in this case, however at Robert Bicknell, we take hallmarking seriously so every piece of jewellery is hallmarked, whether it is under the weight limit or not. We want our customers to feel confident in our products and trust they are buying from a reputable British jeweller.
The minimum weight thresholds for precious jewellery are:
• gold 1 gram
• silver 7.78 grams
• platinum 0.5 gram
• palladium 1 gram
Any piece weighing more than this, legally requires a hallmark.
Jewellery hallmarks and the laws around hallmarking have changed over the course of history, meaning some antique jewellery may not have the type of hallmark you’re used to. We’d recommend taking any antique or inherited jewellery pieces to your local antiques specialist or reputable jeweller, who can help you answer any questions you may have.
If you’re local to our store, pop in with your inherited jewellery and we’ll be delighted to speak to you about your piece. We are experts in transforming old heirloom and antique jewellery creations into modern treasures and can talk you through your remodelling options.
Yes, a piece of jewellery that has been remodelled will need to be hallmarked just like a brand new piece of jewellery. There may be exceptions, in which case, you will need to contact your chosen Assay Office to discuss your piece.
Yes, here at Robert Bicknell we have decades of experience when it comes to hallmarking. Pop into our store with your piece and we can help you understand your jewellery hallmark.
Want to Know More About Hallmarking?
If you need any further information about jewellery and the jewellery making process, please contact our team using the button below: